Prop Shaft fitted

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It has been fun and games getting the alignment of the reversing motor with the gear that is attached between the diff and prop shaft join, so i decided to fit the prop shaft to ensure i knew exactly where it was aligned and then could make final adjustments to the reversing motor mounting plate once it was complete.


As you can see above, i started by getting the reversing motor gear aligned with the diff > Prop shaft mounting plate, the holes are offset, so you have to rotate the gear through 90 to find the point where the bolts all align.  Once in line, i offered up the Union from the head of the prop shaft and after a lot of fiddling ( in hindsight this is not a job for one person ), i managed to get it secured. Continue reading

Reversing Motor – Part 2

With the diff in place its possible to align the ear on the reversing motor with the larger gear that needs to be fitted to the junction of the diff and prop shaft.

I didn’t have space between the two gears on a horizontal plane ( when you engage the gear slides out to engage the gear on the propshaft) and without  a gap it would be permanently engaged.

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So i had to fabricate a spacer so it would have suitable clearance. After cutting a template and some fettling, the motor was refitted a couple of mm further way.  Continue reading

Bulkhead top panel

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Not the most complex job, but needed to cut an access panel into this so i would be able to adjust the pedal box in the future without having to climb headfirst into the drivers footwell.

Marked out the area, used a hole saw to make the corners and allow my saw access to cut out the main shape. Once i had cut it out, filed the edges to ensure nice and smooth.

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Marked out drill points and will secure with Rivnuts in case i need to remove down the line.

Splitting the Prop Shaft for fitting

Oh dear, what an absolute pain in the Ar**

I followed the steps others have advised, remove circlip, on side, use a socket to push ( with a hammer) the bearing through the junction and then hopefully release it.

Well suffice to say, it didn’t want to shift, got the bearing all the way through, but not enough to remove the head of the bearing and separate the junction.
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Fabricate handbrake connector

Ok, perhaps best to set the level of expectation, fabricate may imply a level of skill that is not replicated in the finished item 😉

The current link provided with the handbrake is just too short to work without fouling on the handbrake mount, so i needed to make my own. My daughter was home from University so i roped her in for some design inspiration. She did a great job making a nice link bar so the handbrake could be operated without fouling the chassis.

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Handbrake fitting

I anticipated this would be a relatively simple task, but i have realised quite quickly there are quite a few things that need to be in place before i can finish this job.

Anyway, i started by marking up the position of the handbrake, then drilled out the bolt holes and secured the handbrake.

I then attached the handbrake cables to the rear brake calipers and worked backwards, securing with cable ties as i went, to work out what length of cable i needed.

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Bits and pieces

Not really worthy of a separate entry, but anyway 🙂

While i was looking at fitting the handbrake i though i would fit the aluminium plate at the top of the center tunnel, this will have a large rubber grommet fitted and will have the wiring loom passed through it.

Haven’t got to the electrics yet, but at least it is one less job on my list !

After advice from Dave Powell, i revisited my Pedal assembly and re-routed my throttle cable so it was nice and smooth and then secured a spring Dave had sent me to the pedal so it has a nice and snappy return.

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